Topics include: Cooking (recipes, techniques & equipment); Beverages (appreciating & making your favorites); Food Philosophy, and various books, articles, blogs, and related discussions.
Clarified butter probably isn't any better or worse than regular butter. I suppose it depends on who you ask:
Dr. Atkins (deceased): Stick of butter = "Atkins Power Bar" - eat one every day for optimum health !
Dr. Dean Cornish: Stick of butter = "Coronary Suicide Bar"
Jacques Pepin: Stick of butter = Good sauce, waiting to happen
Milk & Dairy Industry: Stick of butter = $$$$ (good as gold)
Vegans: Stick of butter = Teh Devil
PETA: Stick of butter = Symbol of animal abuse
Hindu Faithful: Stick of butter = Sacred gift of Holy Mother Cow
etc.
In any case, the recipe calls for clarified butter for the following reasons:
* Table butter scorches too easily to make the quantity and type of roux required by this dish.
* Substituting vegetable oil for butter would markedly alter the flavor of the dish - butter and cream are related flavors (since the former is manufactured from the latter), whereas vegetable oil and cream are not.
* Butter pairs better, flavorwise, with shellfish than most other oils.
Since I'm not under a specific gag order for this recipe (by my Chef friend), I'll go ahead and release it.
SPARE RIBS / BABY BACK RIBS
Comment: Slow braised until totally tender, with a reduction sauce for glazing & dipping.
Origin: Re-edited version of a recipe by my friend {snip}
Servings: 2 full racks = very generous entree for 4-6.
Ingredients (ribs)
2 racks Spare or Baby Back Ribs (Pork)
Ingredients (dry rub)
(see further below)
Ingredients (braise liquid)
1 cup Dry White Wine
2 tbs Cider Vinegar
2 tbs Worchestershire Sauce
1 tbs Honey
2 cloves Garlic, minced fine
Directions:
1. PREP: Using the tip of a knife to start it, peel the 'silver skin' off the back of the ribs.
2. DRY RUB: Place each slab of baby back ribs on a piece of heavy-duty aluminium foil, shiny side down. Sprinkle each side generously with the dry rub. Pat the dry rub into the meat. Close foil, leaving enough room for braising liquid and steam. Refrigerate the ribs for a minimum of 4 hours, preferably over night.
3. BRAISE LIQUID: In a small pot, combine braising ingredients, and heat just enough to dissolve honey. Place foil-wrapped ribs on a baking sheet. Open one end of the foil on each slab and pour half of the braising liquid into each foil packet. Tilt the baking sheet in order to equally distribute the braising liquid. Pinch foil securely closed, to form steam chamber. (NOTE: If doing 4 or more racks, place the racks in hotel pans and seal with foil rather than wrapping each individual rack)
4. BRAISE: Braise ribs in 250F oven for 2.5 hours (2.75 hrs for spare ribs), or until the bones wiggle easily when twisted. Three hours will leave them too tender (falling apart), and they'll be hard to handle during broiling/grilling.
5. GLAZE: Open 1 end of foil pouches and decant the braising liquid into a medium saucepot. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce by half or until of a thick syrup consistency. Brush the glaze onto ribs, and broil (or grill) each side for 2 mins or until the glaze caramelizes lightly. Repeat once more with 2nd coating of glaze.
6. SERVE: Cut ribs into 2 bone pieces and serve, with surplus sauce for dipping (if desired).
7. VARIANT: Smoke ribs over low (250 F) fire for up to 2 hours, before braising. Use hickory or fruit wood, preferably. If smoking ribs, reduce cooking time to 2 hours. If smoking ribs do not wrap in foil until after smoking.
Dry Rub, for Pork Spareribs
Origin: Re-edited version of recipe by my friend {snip}
Ingredients (dry rub)
8 tbs (1/2 c) Light Brown Sugar (my friend uses half lite, half dark)
3 tbs Kosher Salt
1 tbs Chili Powder
½ tsp Black Pepper
½ tsp Cayenne Pepper
½ tsp Onion Powder
½ tsp Thyme, dried
½ tsp African Red Pepper or Jalapeno Seasoning**
½ tsp Old Bay Seasoning
This recipe makes enough dry rub for just over 1 standard batch (2 racks) of ribs - so expect a little surplus. If more rub is needed, it can be extended by any amount, as long as the ratio of 8:3:1:½ remains the same. Be sure to measure by volume rather than weight.
** Comment (Brad): Despite having a spice rack that's more complete than most professional chefs, I dont have any of that "African Red Pepper or Jalapeno Seasoning ". I left it in the recipe for completeness, but you can either omit it, or subsititute whatever you like in it's place (I used a combo of hungarian paprika, powdered chipoltle, and extra cayenne in my last batch - next time I might try "Chinese 5 Spice" or for a slightly different flavor).
Enjoy.
Last edited by Darb on Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:38 am, edited 5 times in total.
Here's a recipe I did over this past weekend. I did 3 steaks and 25 ears of corn for 23 people. It's a short recipe, but I padded it heavily with explanatory comments.
(snip - from my recipe file)
Marinated Flank Steak
Origin: My spin on an old family summer recipe. My Dad often made the same recipe (minus the marinade) for the family during summer when I was growing up, back when flank steak was still dirt cheap. These days, everyone seems to have "discovered" flank steak, and it costs 4x as much at it used to (even after inflation), due to it's surging popularity ... so what used to be a frugal meal for a family on a budget is now a bit of an extravagance. Anyway, Dad just used garlic salt and black pepper in his version. My version includes bourbon (tip of the hat to Mom, who grew up in Kentucky), and a briny marinade (tip of the hat to my friend Steve), which adds a nice flavor and helps the meat stay juicy during cooking.
Serves: Figure 4-6 oz meat per person, plus side dishes. Multiplies easily for more than 1 steak. Figure that a standard webber kettle grill will comfortably handle 2 full flank steaks at once.
Ingredients
· One Flank Steak (roughly 1.75 - 2 lbs)
· ½ fl oz Kentucky Bourbon (or Jack Daniels)
· ¼ cup Teriakki Sauce
· ½ Small Lime, fresh juice of
· ½ tsp Garlic Paste
Directions:
1. MEAT: Peel membrane off flank steak (marinate penetrates better), along with any remaining 'silver skin' (prevents curling), trim off excess fat (prevents flareups), and pat dry. If you have the time, and if the meat seems overly soggy (too long in supermarket plastic), allow it to air-dry for a few hours in the fridge, to firm up a bit.
2. MARINATE: Rub meat with a light coating of bourbon (which adds flavor as well as being a bacterial inhibitor), then mix the rest of the marinade together. Add steak to a plastic bag (if doing multiple steaks, use a hotel pan), and add marinade. Massage gently, to ensure good contact between marinade & meat. Once coated, excess marinade can be decanted and discarded, to prevent the steak from getting too waterlogged - you want the steaks well dampened with the marinade - not swimming in it. Let rest in fridge for several hours, but not overnight (prolonged contact with lime juice can discolor and partially cook the surface of the meat). Remove from fridge 30-60 mins before grilling, to allow the meat to come up towards room temperature (this allows the steak to cook faster over higher heat - while leaving a proportionally wider zone of pink).
3. GRILL: Drain steaks, rub lightly with olive oil, and cook roughly 5 mins per side over high heat on a well-oiled grill, until the thick end is rare or med-rare (the thinner end will range from medium to med-well, and the tips will be well). Let rest on a trencher board for 10 mins before slicing (the meat will continue to cook slightly while it rests, so pull it off the grill while still slightly under done, and it'll coast to where you want it - that, plus the brine, plus adequate resting time and good carving technique, is the secret to perfectly done, juicy flank steak). Placing a few slices of bead (or extra buns) downhill from the meat will absorb juices shed during resting & carving - the juice soaked bread is a fought over item.
CARVE: Then the steak is still warm, but no longer hot, begin carving. Starting at the thinnest end, slice thinly across grain, on a 30-40 degree vertical bias (wider slices = less carving). Arrange on serving tray, with the most well-done meat at one end, and getting progressively rarer at the other.
4. SERVE: Serve in hotdog 'potato-bread'' buns, with whatever condiments you desire (I like a little ketchup, some people like HP steak sauce). Traditional side dishes are corn on the cob (with clarified butter), diced garden tomatoes, and macaroni salad.
5. TIPS: A word on timing. If you're gonna serve this with corn on the cob, the best way to time everything is as follows. During the latter half of appetizer hour, start heating the salted corn water while the charcoal burns to the point of being ready. Grill the steaks, and then drop the corn in just before you take the steaks off the grill. The corn (simmer 3-5 mins for fresh young corn straight outta the field, 10-12 mins for older tougher corn) will be ready by the time the steaks have rested, and can cool slightly (after you remove them from the water) while you slice the meat. This way, everything is ready together.
Last edited by Darb on Thu Oct 30, 2003 11:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Well, I did my first bacon & tomato sandwiches of the season ... that's sacred summer food in my family. The bacon crisped up nicely on my BBQ's big cast iron griddle too - which was able to handle an entire pound at once.
BACON-TOMATO SANDWICH
2 slices of your favorite sandwich bread (I like Freihoffers 12 grain)
Mayo (I prefer Hellmans or homemade)
A very generous grinding of fresh Black Pepper, ground fine (tomatoes love black pepper)
4-5 rashers of hickory-smoked bacon, fried until crisp-chewy and patted dry
1 thick meaty slab of beefsteak tomato (fresh & sweet from the garden, still warm from the sun)
Note: 3-4 rashers of bacon go in the sandwich, then you cut the sandwich on the diagonal, then use the last strip as a divider between the halves.
Summer food just doesnt get much better.
p.s. Don't even THINK about trying to use store bought tomatos for this - that would be a crime against the dish. The tomato MUST be fully ripened and straight from the field, or you'll have no idea what you're missing ... in which case you might as well go to your nearest "greasy spoon" (roadside diner) for a pale imitation. Oh, and do not, repeat NOT, add any friggin lettuce - bunny food has no place in this sacred dish. Restaurants add lettuce to disguise/conceal the fact that they're using shitty tomatoes - it's pure filler ... avoid it. This is supposed to a TOMATO sandwich - not a friggin house salad on a bun.
Sadly, most people have never had the sublime pleasure of tasting a REAL, FULLY RIPENED tomato, straight out of the field. Their concept of 'tomato' is framed almost exclusively by the tasteless and textureless slices in the condiment aisle at fast food restaurants. Yeech.
99.5% of the tomatoes people see in restaurants and grocery markets (even the premium "hot house" ones with the token vine fragments & spray-on artifical tomato scent) were actually picked while still green & immature, and were ripened off-the-vine while in cold storage. They might look like the real thing, but there's no comparison whatsoever in either flavor or texture. Early picked tomatoes that are force-ripened in that fashion have little or no aroma, a thin insipid flavor, and a mealy texture. It's amazing how well grocery chains and fast food restaurants have conditioned us to accept utter crap - and to do so unconditionally while also praising them for it. Pathetic.
Unless you live on/near a farm, or a gourmet market that cares enough to carry the real deal (when in season), or a restaurant that takes their produce seriously, most people's only hope of tasting the real thing is to either grow them at home, or to make friends with a foodie (or a vegan) who has a garden.
I think I read somewhere that you're into gardening, Treb, so I'll assume you know the deal.
A friend of mine recently asked for a copy of my Baked Beans Recipe, which I served at a BBQ this past saturday. Thought I'd post a copy here as well, for general consumption (ooh, nice pun)
[quote]Old Fashioned Baked Beans (BBQ)
Origin: Adapted from p.116 of John Willingham’s “World Champion BBQâ€
Yowee, Brad...sounds absolutely sinful. My summertime beans craving usually goes in the other direction though- there's nothing like a great homemade cannelini bean salad with fresh herbs and goat cheese. And crack open a Vouvray or Marlborough SB while you're at it.
I'm glad the weather's getting cooler, though. Last winter I started expirimenting with one-pot dishes featuring a braising meat (chicken thighs, lamb shoulder, etc...) and legumes (classic lentils or other dal), plus veggies and wine (of course) in a variety of styles- Italian, Indian, Southwestern, etc. Last week I finally had enough poblanos (chiles) on the plant to harvest and picked up right where I left off. WooHoo- bring on the fall!
"It was the best of times, it was the 'blurst' of times?!! You stupid monkey!!!"
Pork chops braised in sage-butter (and milk or cider)
Bring it on! I've got lots of sage...
Actually, the sage and dairy combo is one of my favorites- just add a bunch of leaves to a simple cream sauce and serve over cheese tortelloni- absolute heaven...
Unfortunately my oldest son is now of the age where he is busy as heck on weekends so we don't spend any time on LI anymore Maybe with enough forthought I can arrange something, though...
"It was the best of times, it was the 'blurst' of times?!! You stupid monkey!!!"
Yay!! Yesterday I got a nice sized veal shoulder which means that one of my favorite autumnal dishes can't be that far away! It's a veal stew featuring apples, shiitakes, and onions, finished with dijon and cream. No recipe, though I'll post pointers if there's interest.
"It was the best of times, it was the 'blurst' of times?!! You stupid monkey!!!"
Post away - I love veal, and any recipes in general that combine meat with fruit.
As for unusual veal techniques - one of the things I've been meaning to try is taking a breast of veal, and instead of stuffing it (the usual technique), doing it the same way as country style pork spare-ribs ... a slow braise, followed by glazing (under broiler) with reduced juices & seasonings.
I'll give it a whirl as soon as breast becomes available - sometimes for as little as 99 cents/lb.
Hey, aint that what the hobby is all about - making 4 star dishes outta the cheapest, toughest, least desireable cuts ?
p.s. We're still waiting on alpine82 to get around to providing direct linkage to the IBDOF ... when that happens, we should see an influx of people from LIFE.
I've been meaning to try is taking a breast of veal, and instead of stuffing it (the usual technique), doing it the same way as country style pork spare-ribs ... a slow braise, followed by glazing (under broiler) with reduced juices & seasonings.
I did something very similar this summer, only I did it all on the BBQ. I gave it a quick marinade with wine and herbs and then slow cooked it indirectly over low temperatures for about 2 hours adding some mesquite chips occasionally. It went over big time with the in-laws and I'm sure to do it again very soon.
"It was the best of times, it was the 'blurst' of times?!! You stupid monkey!!!"
The store was out of veal breast this past weekend, so I fired up the smoker with some italian sausages, and some lamb shanks - just to see how trhey came out.
The sausages were perfect after 2 hours - nice and smoky, and deep red. I deliberately did NOT pierce the casings, in order to avoid having them dry out. Definitely worth repeating - easy to do lots of them, and easy enough to put up a whole hotel pan of shredded peppers & onions in the oven, to cook in parallel. Simply serve yourself to pre-cut rolls, roasted peppers & onions, a jar of german mustard, and a fresh keg of dortmunder or pils ... works for me, and dirt easy to prepare for a large group of people.
Boiling them in beer is nice, but the smoke definitely yeilds a bolder flavor, and a crisp skin - so I now prefer the latter method.
As for the shanks - even brining them for an hour & wrapping them in bacon didnt prevent them from getting a bit dry ... and the smoke overpowered the lamb a bit. Shanks seem to prefer braising instead of smoking.
Someone asked me for a salmon tartare recipe. This is the one that a friend of mine trained me to make:
Origin: The recipe is a classic byproduct of filleting fresh salmon - you either scrape & mince the flesh from the frames, or your can finely mince fresh fillet.
Comment: Sushi fans will enjoy this recipe, and preparing it in front of your guests is fun too.
Batch: The finished tartare will have roughly the same volume as the salmon you use to make it. Figure that 3-4 oz/pp for a generous entree portion, or 1-2 oz/pp for passed appetizers (figure 1 oz is enough for 2 crackers).
Time: 5-10 mins (very fast).
Qty Ingredient
(as available) Fresh Salmon Fillet, sushi grade, minced v.fine
(optional) Herbs (Chives or Dill), freshly minced v.fine
(optional) Shallots, minced v.fine
(to taste) Sea Salt, fine
(to taste) White Pepper, freshly ground fine
(to taste) Lemon Juice, freshly squeezed (or lemon zest oil, if you can get it)
(serve) Carr's Water Crackers
(serve) Sour Cream
(optional) Caviar
WINE: Serve with chilled Sauvignon Blanc, or Blanc de Blanc Champagne (Brut)
Directions:
1) SALMON: (pick one)
· FRAMES: Remove fillets & reserve for separate use. In necessary, rinse frame (to remove any blood & scales), then pat dry. Using the tip of a small spoon, scrape the residual flesh from the frame & head. Reserve flesh & discard frame (or reserve for fish stock). Clean cutting board & re-chill the scrapings until very cold, but not frozen. Chill your serving bowl too.
· FILLET: Dice small, then re-chill until very cold, but not frozen. Chill your serving bowl too.
2) NOTES:
· TIMING: You want to finish the steps below JUST before you're ready to serve the tartare, because it is highly perishable and it's texture/flavor peaks quickly. If prepared too far in advance, the salt and lemon juice will degrade the texture of the salmon. Remember - you're making tartare, not ceviche.
· FREEZING: If necessary, you can freeze the finely diced salmon at this stage, with only a minor loss of texture - gently spread the salmon into a thin layer in a freezer bag, squeeze out any air, and flash freeze. Thaw just before continuing. Doing this is a tradeoff - it makes the fish safer, but texture suffers slightly.
3) MINCE/SEASON: Mince herbs & shallots, and set aside. Spread the finely diced chilled salmon in a single layer atop your cutting board. Partially mince, then apply indicated seasonings, fold and continue mincing with your chef knife. Use a VERY restrained hand with the seasonings - you wan't their flavors to enhance the fish, not dominate it. Continue mincing & folding until the seasonings are mixed in and the desired consistency/flavor is reached. If unsure when to stop, use a fine burnois cut (1/16th inch dice). Transfer finished tartare to your chilled small serving bowl (glass ramekins or caviar bowls work fine).
4) SERVE: Serve well chilled, atop carr's water crackers, with a tiny dollup of sour cream and (optional) a dot of caviar.
5) WINE: Serve with chilled Sauvignon Blanc, or Blanc de Blanc Champagne (Brut).
6) VARIANT (TUNA): Dice tuna v.small (1/8"), stir together with diced avacado & diced apples (treated w/lemon juice to prevent browning) and perhaps a little fresh herb and/or a very light dressing. Serve atop crackers, or wrapped in rice paper & lettuce. If latter, mix a dipping sauce to accompany (miso paste w/sweetened rice vinegar or OJ ?).
A word about "sushi grade" - just because something is very fresh does NOT mean it is sushi grade. If you're unsure, you can take very fresh fish, and render it safer to eat raw by filleting & freezing the meat for atleast 72 hrs at -10F or colder.
Last edited by Darb on Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
Here's a recipe I created on a whim this past weekend. Very tasty.
PERNOD INFUSED SEA SCALLOPS
1 lb Sea Scallops, drained and patted dry
drizzle (1/2 fl oz) Pernod (a sweet liquer flavored with Star Anise)
Pinch fine Sea Salt
Clarified butter (for sauteeing)
* Drain scallops, pat dry, place in a single layer in a shallow bowl, and refrigerate uncovered for 1 hour, to dry slightly further.
* Drizzle with pernod, sprinkle with salt, and toss well to coat evenly. Transfer to small tupperare or ziplock bag, and refrigerate 1 hour or until pernod & salt have been fully absorbed (if you know food science, this process is called osmotic brining - the salt draws the liquer into the food, and locks it there ... keeping the scallops plump and moist during cooking).
* Remove from fridge. Drying shouldnt be necessary, because the scallops should have absorbed the salted pernod - but if they're still damp, dry them on paper towels.
* Pre heat a well seasoned cast iron griddle until water dances.
* Brush griddle generously with clarified butter, and add scallops in a single layer.
* Cook approx 2 mins, or until golden brown on bottom, then turn, and cook another 1-2 mins, or until middles of scallops are just barely underdone (they'll continue to cook slightly off the heat, and will coast to completion on their own). If they begin to fissue across the middle, they're overcooking - remove from heat immediately.
* remove to cocktail plate, with a shotglass of toothpicks nestled in the middle. Sprinkle with a little more sea salt, and serve immediately, with or without a spritz of fresh lime or lemon juice.
Simple, fast and easy ... and as long as the griddle is hot, you might as well do something else on it, like quesedillas and perhaps some shrimp.
Last edited by Darb on Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
Maybe with enough forthought I can arrange something, though...
