Culinaria: recipes, memories ...

Topics include: Cooking (recipes, techniques & equipment); Beverages (appreciating & making your favorites); Food Philosophy, and various books, articles, blogs, and related discussions.

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Jammy
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Post by Jammy »

Brad_H wrote:I read an interesting article on rare "Heritage Turkeys" today. This is a good read for any of my fellow "slow food" fans.
I am a hot food fan, i.e. CHILI PEPPERS! BTW >>> that is fact and not fiction Brad, lol.


Jammy

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[url=http://marcc.no-ip.org/SoB/Team.php?Team_ID=81&Page=1&Sort=]Ars Technica Team Prime Rib:SOB[/url]
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Post by Darb »

Tom: Thx for the info.

Did some more smoking over the weekend ... 5 lbs of sweet italian fennel sausages (smoked 2 hrs at 225F), and a 6 lb duck (rubbed with orange liquer, and stuffed with orange slices and rosemary, and smoked for 4.5 hrs). Came out great.

I even managed to pluck what little meat remained on the carcass (after carving it), minced it up, and made a white pizza the next night ... smoked duck with brie, mozzerella and dried cranberries. Wasnt too bad. Next time I'll probably soak the cranberries in brandy, cuz they were a little tough. I was also out of ricotta, so the pizza itself was a tad dry. Still, not a bad improv on 2 hrs notice.
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Post by MrPorter »

There's an Indian place in Bergenfield, NJ, that serves a simple coconut soup- no shrimp, corn, mushrooms, etc.- just a nice elegant and plain soup. Actually, it's probably just one level up from opening a can of coconut milk and chugging it on the spot, which is probably illegal (or should be- potentially too addictive). Anyway, many cookbook and google searches later I still can't find a recipe that isn't all 'cheffed-up' but I figure 'how hard can it be?'. I made my first attempt this week and must say that I'm quite pleased with it: and since I also proved my wife's theory correct that I could make a whole pot for what a bowl costs in the restaurant she is on board as well. (The richness and beauty of this soup belies the fact that a quart can be prepared at home for under $3, provided you have the ingredients on hand.)

Southern Indian Coconut Soup

1 TBSP Vegetable Oil
6-8 Curry Leaves
1 tsp Mustard Seeds
1/2 tsp Cumin/Coriander Masala (50/50 Blend)
1 Can Coconut Milk, preferably from Thailand
1 Can Chicken Broth or equal amount stock
1 TBSP Honey
1/4 tsp Garam Masala
Salt to taste
Coriander Leaves for garnish

Heat oil to medium hot and add Curry Leaves. As soon as they crackle add the Mustard seeds and Cumin/Coriander Masala. They will pop almost immediately. At that time add the Coconut Milk and Stock. Bring to a simmer and hold for 5-10 min. Add Honey and Garam Masala. Stir to incorporate. Strain and taste for salt- rectify if required. Serve in individual bowls with Coriander Leaves floating on top.

It's so simple that it can be made after work with little fuss.
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Post by Darb »

Hey, nice recipe - and the mustard seeds and curry leaves lock it in as most definitely southern (as if the coconut alone werent a giveaway) :)

You might want to clarify the recipe a tad further for first timers, who might otherwise confuse canned "coconut milk" with products like "coco lopez (sweetened) cream of coconut" that are used for pina coloadas ... the latter contains extra coconut fat and lots of sugar).

That said, what type of milk do you prefer to use - full fat, or 'lite' ?. I assume the former for this one, since you're cutting it with chicken stock.

TWEAKS (to possibly try):
1) Try a little heat ... perhaps 2 green thai peppers early on in the sautee (split lengthwise & deseed them), or some crumbled cayenne peppers.
2) I think that recipe might also like some fenugreek seed, which has an interesting bananna flavor with a touch of maple.

Speaking of southern indian & fenugreek, I might post a recipe for bananna soup. I think you'll like it.
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Post by MrPorter »

Brad H:
You might want to clarify the recipe a tad further for first timers, who might otherwise confuse canned "coconut milk" with products like "coco lopez (sweetened) cream of coconut" that are used for pina coloadas ... the latter contains extra coconut fat and lots of sugar).
Didn't think about that, thanks for the tip. This is the stuff I use:

http://importfood.com/cfch1301.html

A note about coconut milk- it isn't the liquid inside the coconut, which I believe is called coconut water. It is the flesh of the coconut pureed and strained. You could do it at home but quite frankly you can't get the fresh quality coconuts that they get at the cannery, so quality canned coconut milk is actually preferable to fresh. And on Long Island I get the 13.5 oz. cans for about a dollar.

I did think about using chiles as well, but wanted to start with something that works in a simple state. Didn't consider the fenugreek, though. I'm going to enjoy experimenting with this one...
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Post by Darb »

Ok, as promised, here's my recipe for curried buttermilk bananna soup - it's very southern indian in style. One of my favorite (and fast) winter recipes.

Bananna Pulisheri Soup (Indian)

Origin: My own recipe, inspired by comment made in passing by the authoress of “Curried Favorsâ€
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Post by Darb »

I scored a good deal at my supermarket today.

Porterhouse steaks were on sale for $3.99 US (roughly 1/2 price) ... so I stopped by early on my way to work, and got the butcher to give me a large uncut 12 lb porterhouse section off of a primal loin cut for the same price. Nice deal. It's sitting in the car now (it's close to freeing out, so it's ok).

When I get it home, I'll cold dry age it in the fridge for the rest of the week, and this coming weekend I'll break it down into it's 2 component cuts ...

* A large "Strip Loin Roast" (same cut as NY Strip Steak, except it's left left whole as a roast), which I'll either cut into 2" thick steaks, or sear & roast whole for my parents. :mrgreen:
* A large section of Fillet Mignon, which will either get cut into steaks, or broken down for beef stroganoff. If I'm feeling ambitious, I'll use my friend's recipe and make some individual (single serving) beef wellingtons. :mrgreen:

As I've said in other threads in the tap room, basic home butchery is fairly easy, fun (if you're not squeemish), and can save you a LOT of money. All that's required is a good boning knife and a modicrum of know how easily acquired from a good book or an experienced friend.

I highly recommend Jacques Pepin's "Complete Techniques", which includes some decent introductory info on basic butchery, along with helpful pictures.

- Saving $$$, due to the Hoi Polloi's irrational overreaction to the "Mad Cow" scare (which only pertains to brain tissue and ground bone meal from infected cows). :thumb:

p.s. I'll probably pick up a 2nd roast tomorrow. I'll break that one down right away into steaks and freeze it.
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Post by Darb »

I taught myself how to make this last night.

It's easy, party friendly, and highly recommended.

PAN-SEARED FILLET MIGNON STEAKS:

MEAT: Cut a well-trimmed section of fillet crosswise into 2â€
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Post by MidasKnight »

Brad, would dill work as an option for the horseradish sauce? I'm not sure how those flavors would go together.
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Post by MidasKnight »

Also Brad, I just browsed over some of your recipes and I noticed you have a tendency to mix unmixables (in my opinion). I absolutely despise a fruity or sweet flavor in a dinner dish. Perhaps you'd care to enlighten me on the virtues of using fruit 'where fruit doesn't belong.' I'm interested in finding out if maybe I'm simply approaching it all wrong.

(orange duck? cranberries on pizza?)

This is coming from someone who hates pineapple on pizza so don't bring that one up.
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Post by Darb »

Not liking pineapple with roasted ham (the same combo on white pizza is just a diffent format for presenting the same flavor combo) shouldnt automatically bias anyone against the use of fruit in entrees.

Using fruit in entrees has a long and time honored tradition in many cuisines, both high and low, from around the world, and rebelling against them without giving them a fair shake only serves to deny you some of life's great little adventerous pleasures:

France: Crispy duck ala orange is a classic, as is coq au vin (chicken stewed in wine).
Chinese-American: General Tso's Chicken (orange), and Chicken with lemon sauce are classic. "Duck Sauce" is made from apricots, so if you like that condiment on anything you're guilty as charged. :D
India: Mango Chicken is a southern classic, and many dishes (including many stews and biryanis) make use of raisins and nuts.
Thailand: Coconut milk is commonplace in hot & spicy soups.
Tex-Mex: Lime juice is commonplace in many dishes.
New England: Can you say turkey with cranberry stuffing ? How about pork chops braised in apple cider ?
I knew you could. The tradition stems from german settlers who did something similar with reisling wine. :mrgreen:
German-American: Waldorf Salad anyone ? (includes apples & nuts)
Australia: Seared osterich loin in shiraz wine reduction ... ooh la la !
Italian: Honeydew melon slices wrapped with Prosciutto ham and drizzled with 50 yr balsamic vinegar ... exquisite !


The list goes on and on, my friend.

I've even helped a few Japanese sushi chefs (who rarely use fruit) experiment with it under the guise of "global fusion" cuisine ... such as substituting julienne of peeled apple for the julienne of cucumber (or shredded daikon) in certain sushi rolls, and serving it with a spicy dip of mayo mixed with oriental chili paste. Very tasty.

Life is an adventure ... there's no point in being a wallflower when you could be out on the dancefloor having fun, regardless of one's dancing skill or lack thereof :banana:

Let me conclude by also saying that fruit plays many rolls in cuisine beyond just flavor:

The acids add brightness to a dish
Acids help tenderize meat during marination.
Fruit acids can also be used to do the cooking (re: "seafood ceviche").
Dried fruits keep year round, and also provide a valuable source of calories and nutrients - so it's natural people would find tasty ways to use them.
etc.
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Post by Darb »

MidasKnight asked:

Brad, would dill work as an option for the horseradish sauce ?
Try it and let me know - that's half the fun of cooking. However, the horseradish contributes 3 things in that sauce that dill alone doesnt quite cover, so the results will be very different ... heat, pungency/acid, and bitterness.

There's a different classic garnish for crusty steak that DOES use dill that you might want to try ... DILL COMPOUND BUTTER. Just cook your steak, and add a little knob of dill-butter to it as a garnish. Very tasty.

It's easy to make. You basically just soften some good quality butter (do not melt it - you just want it soft), mix in some finely chopped fresh dill, roll it back into a small log (with plastic wrap) and rechill it until hard again ... then just cut off a pat whenever you need it. Shelf life is about a week, in the fridge.
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Post by MidasKnight »

Thanks for the info Brad.

Also, I can safely say I don't like Sweet and sour anything (chinese-like), Orange Chicken, Waldorf Salad or *Pork Chops and AppleSauce* ... so, as you can see, it isn't just the pineapple on pizza thing. Of everything you listed, I either have not tried or didn't like any of them with one exception...lime on mexican food. I think that is for the acid and flavor though since there isn't a lot of sweetness there.

I'm all for the acidity, I just don't want the 'sweetness.'

My god, reading your stuff makes me feel soooo picky ... and I thought I was pretty openminded about food (not much else though).

Wow, I don't like pretzels dipped in something sweet either.

Brad, you are a cruel mirror.
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Post by Darb »

Ya know, it's an interesting point to note that some people's taste preferences are influenced in part by the type of receptors they were born with in their mouth and nose.

Our flavor receptors allow us to perceive the following 4 general characteristics, which form the primary colors, if you will, of taste and (to some extent) smell: Sour, Salty, Sweet, and Bitter.

Take salt for instance ... some people like either a little salt, or scads of it, and that's sometimes determined in part by how well their palate perceives salt. Low sensitivity tends to cause a preference for increased saltiness in foods, and high sensitivity tends to cause the reverse.

The same thing may be explain, in part, why some people dislike sweet things in general. It may be the case that such people have tongues that are hypersensitive to sugar, and that even small amounts are perceived as cloying. Some people are also insulin resistant, and subconsciously avoid sugary foods because it makes them feel sluggish.

I'm not ruling out that some people honestly just dislike certain fruits and sugar in general ... I'm just raising an interesting point that other things that we might otherwise not be aware of might be a factor too.

Back in our hunter gatherer days, people with a hypersensitivity to bitterness were prized, because they could pick up (among other things) the presence of toxic alkyloids in wild plants ... such people often became the herbologists and medicine men/women of their day :)
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Post by Darb »

My friend and I have begun making preliminary plans to enter one of the state chili championships. If we can garner a regional win, we move on to the nationals, for a chance at $25,000.

Could be fun.

Meanwhile, if anyone has any good books on chili to recommend, I'm all ears.

p.s. Competition chili forbids the use of beans and/or pasta.
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Post by MrPorter »

Brad-

You simply must keep me up to date on the details, and I'll give you as much advice as I can.

First- go here: http://www.fiery-foods.com/dave/ndx_chili.asp and read up on Chili history and recipes.

Next take a spin around the ICS site, if you haven't already- http://www.chilicookoff.com/
Try some of the recipes to see what the judges are looking for. I assume that you will be competing ICS style Chili.

As you probably know from brewing competitions, a great chili and one that meets the judges' expectations can sometimes be two different things. Personally, I think that it is total bullshit to make a big deal about the color but it happens quite a bit. A lot of Terlingua guys will add paprika for that purpose.

Also- competition chili will be more salty and concentrated, not necessarily hotter, than what you would make if you were to eat a bowl yourself. Again- the theory is the same when dealing with homebrew judges- you have to make an impact with a small amount of chili. That's why a lot of the winning recipes utilize powdered chile instead of pods- a shame because pods give a much more rounded and refined flavor.

I recommend you make your own powder- you can avoid getting stem and seed material that way.

Good luck!
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Post by Darb »

Excellent advice my friend, and yes ... similar thoughts had occured to me, based on my own experience as a homebrew judge.

Feel free to post more ideas and comments, as they occur.

Oh, and don't be a stranger ... you dont visit here nearly often enough for my preference :thumb:
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Post by Aunflin »

Well, I guess I'll post a couple easy (very easy) recipes that I got from my mom, who got them from my grandma--and so on and so forth...back to who knows when...

I was raised in the country, eating simple but good food--you intimidate me Brad, with all your vast culinary knowledge: all the terminology, fancy foods, and etc. But I'll make my own meager contribution.

Fruit Preserves (very easy):

First, you start off with two quarts of washed and stemmed berries--my mom usually does strawberries, though almost any berry or fruit can be used, however, you might have to play with the recipe a bit. Made a batch with fresh-picked blackberries. Turned out quite nice. :)

Second, you put them in the pot with two Tablespoons of vinegar--my mom says its to help keep the color. Bring to boil for three minutes. Add four cups of sugar. Heat to rolling boil, stirring occasionally to keep from sticking, for eight minutes.

After the eight minutes is up, let the preserves set in the pan until cool enough to transfer to the proper holding container. Very good when they're still warm. Nearly as good cold. You can either can 'em, freeze 'em, or store in the refigerator.

I'm planning on making a batch today along with some homemade rolls, which is to follow:

Homemade rolls: another recipe passed down through the generations:

Ingredients:

Two cups of warm water
Two tablespoons of quick rise yeast (or regular, if you want.)
One teaspoon of salt
1/4 cup sugar
One egg
1/2 cup of oil
And enough flour (this is how my grandma taught me!) to make a stiff dough.

Okay, dissolve yeast in warm water and then add salt, sugar, oil, and egg. Mix well. Gradually stir in flour. Keep adding and stirring until stiff.

When the dough is suitably stiff, place on floured board, kneading and adding flour until it is not sticky. Place in a greased bowl, cover, and let rise double. With that accomplished, punch down the dough and form rolls--I usually pinch off bits, rolling them by hand. Then, allow the rolls to rise double. Bake at 400 degrees* until golden brown.

*If you're using a convection oven, I would recommend lowering the temperature a bit...to 350 or a little less. I found out the hard way. :( Burned a perfectly good batch of rolls...

Well, there's my two relatively simple recipes...
"A writer's chosen task is to write well and professionally. If you can't keep doing it, then you're no longer a professional, but a gifted amateur." L. E. Modessit, jr.
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Post by Darb »

MMmmmm ... there are endless variations on basic rolls.

Something I've been meaning to try, but havent done yet, is adding freshly crushed home-dried home-grown rosemary to the flour ... the aroma after baking, and when slathered with good butter, should be awesome. :thumb:
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Post by Aunflin »

Oooh! Sounds tastey. I'll have to try that myself.

Oh, and my roll recipe works good for cinnamon rolls, too. Just gotta roll it out, spread butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon on the dough, roll it up in a loaf--I'm sure you know how to do this--cut it into appropriate portions, let it rise and bake 'em. Let 'em cool, put on the frosting--and...yum. I also sometimes add raisins or leave out the cinnamon for carmel rolls...
"A writer's chosen task is to write well and professionally. If you can't keep doing it, then you're no longer a professional, but a gifted amateur." L. E. Modessit, jr.
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Post by Darb »

Ok, friend of mine just asked me for a rice recipe. Here's one I've been tweaking for a bit. The rice technique might seem a little unusual, but it's totally authentic to real indian cuisine.

Note: This recipe is ideal for premium dry-aged basmati - and since 10 lbs only costs like $10-15, it's worth it to buy the best. Texmati, or unaged basmati will not taste as good, or have the same texture ... decrease the amount of water slightly for those, by 1/2 cup.

Terminology: "1-" means scant ... or, just under 1.

RICE: Pullao w/Peas (Indian Rice)
Origin: Tweaked version from “Curried Favorsâ€
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Post by Darb »

Ok, here's a draft list of dishes I'll be choosing amongst making for Memorial day BBQ ...
Memorial Day 2004 - Food Choices to ponder

BEVERAGES: (adult)
* Freshly brewed iced tea (w/mint or ginger)
* Lager: Stella Artois
* Wine: Sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio.

BEVERAGES: (children)
* Root Beer

COLD APPETIZERS: (choose 4+)
* Homemade Seafood Ceviche (phyllo cups ?)
* Homemade Salmon Tartare (phyllo cups ?)
* DIP: Homemade Guacamole & tortilla chips
* DIP: Salsa & tortilla chops
* DIP: Homemade Roasted curried eggplant dip
* Brie, Dry Sausage & Cherries

HOT APPETIZERS: (choose 4+)
* GRIDDLE: Quesedillas (assortment) << use bartender garnish tray for assorted fillings
* GRIDDLE: Pernod Scallops w/Remoulade
* GRILL: Cajun Shrimp (quad skewers)
* GRILL: Riblets of Lamb w/Rosemary
* COLEMAN+GRIDDLE: Fried Homemade Goyoza w/spicy chili sauce
* COLEMAN: Mussels w/white wine (sauce TBD) <<< STEVE

ENTREES, ADULT: (choose 2+)
* WEBER: Home-Smoked Italian Sausages w/roasted peppers & onions
* GRILL: Boneless Tandoori Chicken Thigs (w/tortilla wrap bar: grape tomatoes, red onions, lime, yogurt, cilantro)
* GRILL: Indian ground lamb kebabs (w/tortilla wrap bar: minted yogurt-cucumber sauce, tomato & onion)
* GRILL: Stuffed Whole Salmon Fillet w/dill dressing

ENTREES, CHILDREN
Hot Dogs w/buns & condiments

STARCH: (choose 2+)
* COLD: Homemade Macaroni Salad (for the easily intimidated)
* COLD: Homemade Potato Salad (ditto)
* REHEAT: Homemade Vagni Bhaat (Indian pilaf of curried eggplant)
* REHEAT: Homemade Puallo with peas (Indian Pilaf)
* COLEMAN: Fresh Corn on the Cob

DESSERT:
* Watermelon
Hey, I like to cook :thumb:
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Post by Aunflin »

Salsa & torilla chops and Boneless Tandoori Chicken Thigs...my favorites! :P
"A writer's chosen task is to write well and professionally. If you can't keep doing it, then you're no longer a professional, but a gifted amateur." L. E. Modessit, jr.
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Post by Darb »

The secret for the chicken is butterflying it to an even thickness, marinating it in highly spiced buttermilk for 1-2 days, and then grilling it flat over mega heat until it's not quite done ... then letting it coast to doneness off the heat. Ubermoist and very tasty - and no skin or bones to fuss with.

I can post a recipe if you wish. My version is better than many restaurant versions, and you can do it on a grill without a tandoor oven. :thumb:
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Post by Aunflin »

Sounds good...I'm hungry :cry: :shock: :mrgreen:
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