Celebrity Chef Roundup: Books, TV/Film, Restaurants, Websites, News

Topics include: Cooking (recipes, techniques & equipment); Beverages (appreciating & making your favorites); Food Philosophy, and various books, articles, blogs, and related discussions.

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Post by Darb »

Better, if you know how ... and that's not just an idle conceit.

You cannot, for instance, chiffonade basil with a mezzaluna, nor can you precisely control the size and regularity of your dicing of herbs. Because both hands are required for the tool, you cant control the food item itself ... it's just drop and rock. Very unprecise. If you want to mince parsley in a hurry, you can curl it up before thin mincing it, then put both hands on the blade and speed chop it as well or faster than a mezz. It's all in the wrist.

They're also ill suited to firm vegetables, or anything that requires force or clings to the blade - like potatoes.

I'll go toe to toe with anyone on, say, mushrooms. ;)

It's really a fringe specialty tool with built-in limitations. It does some things acceptably, but virtually everything can be done as well or better by a chef knife, with even modest practice/training.
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Post by Kvetch »

Well, the idea of trying to cut, say, potatoes with one is just painful. I wouldn't even try it with garlic or onions

Since I have no idea what chiffonading is, that isn't a problem for me...

I don't normally use one except when mass chopping huge piles of herbs e.g. for tabouleh. And while I certainly see the point about precision, I don't see the need for it when chopping herbs.

I see it's main strength as being a labour saver with huge piles of herbs that need fine chopping. Any other time I'd use a knife simply because it *is* easier.

Mind you, I really need to get a set of decent Sheffield steel knives - the ones I'm using are kind of rubbish, and I don't have a steel, so they are getting even more blunt.
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Post by Darb »

Most rat-tail type "sharpening steels" are misnomers ... they dont so much sharpen as 'true' (straighten) the edge of whatever you're working with.

What you want is an oval-edged steel impacted with commercial diamond dust ... you can get them for as little as $20 US, and they sharpen like a charm.

You'll still need to properly sharpen them every so often, just to get the edge to lay flay against the board with no bumps or valleys, but they'll do 90% of the sharpening work.
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Post by Kvetch »

I'll keep that in mind when I go out and try and find one of the damn things - thanks!.
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Post by violetblue »

Brad wrote:It's really a fringe specialty tool with built-in limitations. It does some things acceptably, but virtually everything can be done as well or better by a chef knife, with even modest practice/training.
But Brad (she whines) it's SO cool-looking. Can't I just have one for fun? I will use your tip to go buy a better knife, though (she grudgingly agrees, pouting). I don't like to sharpen my knives then I wonder why they don't cut well.
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Post by Darb »

Mezzalunas get dull at pretty much the same rate - and they're more awkward to re-sharpen. ;)

Anyway, learning how to sharpen knives only takes a little reading and a little practice ... it's one of those basic, easy to acquire, and very useful skills that, inexplicably, so many people shy away from and never bother to acquire.

Let's compare:

High School Trig Class
* How much effort to acquire basic skill ? Several hundred hours.
* How often used in daily life ? Unless you're an architect, engineer, or teacher, probably not particularly often.

Basic Knife Sharpening
* How much time to acquire ? A few mins to learn the basics, a few hours to learn intermediate and advanced skills.
* How often would/could it be used in daily life ? Several times a week - even more if you have friends and relatives who learn you know how.

The return, in practical usefullness, compared to the time spent to acquire, makes it well worth it.
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Post by Darb »

So, Esca was very nice, albeit a bit pricy ($65/pp for the tasting menu). The flavor construction of some of the dishes, while entertaining, was much less even and polished than I was expected, and some of the dishes were vigorously oversalted. The $25 add-on option for 5 additional items was of questionable value, given the tiny 'amuse-bouche' portion sizes of each item. Overall, dinner came to just over $100/pp, pre-tip.

In no particular order (and not a complete list):

* The raw sweet shrimp, in olive oil, were excellent - but I've had as well, or better, at my local sushi haunt.
* The split prawn sashimi, was tasty, if unspectacular - it might have benefited from a few drops of lobster-infused oil.
* The lone oyster on the halfshell, was too small, and seemed out of place, when tasted next to accompanying items that were more firmly flavored. It was literally an obligatory afterthought on the plate.
* The minced clam on roasted shaved fennel was overwhelmed by the latter.
* There was a dish that included wild mushrooms (I forget which) which were strongly oversalted, and almost inedible as a result.
* There was a small pasta course with a lone jumbo shrimp and a few clams - the entire dish was oversalted, and the pasta was a bit too al dente for my preference.
* The fresh uni (sea urchin) was overdressed and overflavored with olive oil, and was almost un-tastable ... the oil tasted nice, but the uni was overwhelmed and lost in it.
* I kept hoping for some italian-style eel, or octopus, or conch ... but it never appeared. Definite hole in their tasting menu.
* There was a fairly generous portion of fresh lump crabmeat, seasoned simply with lemon and a light drizzle of olive oil (a welcome display of restraint compared to some of the other culinary drownings we'd witnessed)
* The wines paired with each course were skillfully selected, and entertaining.
* The dessert course was a treat ... the lemon tri-layer was delicious and perky with fresh lemon, and the chocolate cake with chocolate gelato was appropriately sinful - especially the gelato, which was surprisingly light and refreshing.
* The bread was unimpressive - the only two choices were an over thick and slightly oily whole-wheat focaccia (too heavy a flavor) and slices of an over-risen & overbaked sour-dough panis loaf (too bitter). I expected more palate friendly bread for such fare.
* The waiters were friendly, but not as attentive or conversive as I was hoping. They had something of a cold and somewhat detached attitude - like they were doing their job, rather than enjoying themselves.

All in all, it was a nice meal, with a few adventerous moments of discovery (which is what tastings are all about) ... but for every such moment there was an equal number of minor disappointments. Very professional, but uneven and not particularly warm and welcoming.

If I wanted to go back to a Batali-owned restaurant, I'd probably go to Babbo instead - we could have done as well, or better, in a respected sushi bar. In fact, we did ... just before hand, we'd visited Sakagura - fodder for a separate post. ;)
Last edited by Darb on Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by violetblue »

It sounds like the overseasoning and inconsistent quality could be indicative of typical "rushed" new restaurant problems. I am surprised a restaurant owned by such a seasoned chef as Batali would experience these problems, though. You think he would know how to keep things consistent and organized from the opening. I wonder how much he was involved with the restaurant. So do you think you'll give it a while to work out the kinks and try it again? (That's disappointing to look forward to something so much and then be let down!)
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Post by Darb »

First of all, I don't think this is a newly-opened restaurant. I haven't dug around on the internet to reverse engineer it, but I get the feeling that it's been open for at least 6 months now, perhaps even a year.

Also, one of the realities of celebrity owned restaurants is that it's impossible to construe anything meaningful about the level (or lack) of participation of said person, from the moment of launch onward, without having direct personal knowledge. Just because he's a part owner, and helped put together the concept, doesn't necessarily mean that he eats there, or even visits with any degree of regularity. It might just be an investment, run by others, with little or no direct involvement.

In any case, some of the dishes could have benefitted from a little polishing, with regards to flavor balance, saltiness, and the amount of oil used.

The desserts and wines, however, were very reliable.
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Post by Darb »

I'll have to see if I can entice Clong into posting his impressions, since he was with us. ;)
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Post by violetblue »

Brad wrote:First of all, I don't think this is a newly-opened restaurant. I haven't dug around on the internet to reverse engineer it, but I get the feeling that it's been open for at least 6 months now, perhaps even a year.

Also, one of the realities of celebrity owned restaurants is that it's impossible to construe anything meaningful about the level (or lack) of participation of said person, from the moment of launch onward, without having direct personal knowledge. Just because he's a part owner, and helped put together the concept, doesn't necessarily mean that he eats there, or even visits with any degree of regularity. It might just be an investment, run by others, with little or no direct involvement.

In any case, some of the dishes could have benefitted from a little polishing, with regards to flavor balance, saltiness, and the amount of oil used.

The desserts and wines, however, were very reliable.
Wow, I'm surprised that it's not a new restaurant, considering the experience you had. I am surprised a well-known chef would play "loose and free" with his reputation by not making sure anything attached to his name was top-notch. Of course, I have a perfectionistic personality, so I would be there kicking as* or making sure someone was there doing it for me if my reputation was on the line. I hate it when celebrities attach their name to something then take no responsibility for it (although I do realize you are not personally aware of what his involvement is (but you ARE the all-knowing Brad)). I wonder what would account for the lack of polish, then.
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Post by Darb »

I also thought the pasta course was a throw-away entry ... aside from the fact that we were starved for a starch, my mind wanted something more creative than just some al dente oversalted linguini. Perhaps a seafood risotto, or something creatively playful ... {Brad dons his imaginary Chef hat} like a few small pasta shells, dressed with garlic-infused oil, and each filled with a butter-poached snail. ;)
(but you ARE the all-knowing Brad)
Oh, puh-leaze. My being an unrepentant food geek doesn't mean that I'm culinarily omniscient. :roll: :P
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Post by violetblue »

I've never had snail, but I'm sure you know that (looks anxiously around while seeking telepathic vibes from Brad). I would try your idea for a dish, though. I wish I had an IBDoF buddy where I lived, then we could have grand culinary adventures together too. We would also have a secret handshake (I've already planned it out). OK, work to do now--be stern with self!
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Post by Darb »

Before Esca, we stopped off for a snack, and some sake, at Sakagura, in Eastern Manhattan ... a well known sake bar with good food, and over 100+ premium small-batch sakes.

The restaurant itself was very pretty, and the menu warrants a return visit for more-indepth exploration (I plan on returning), but my chief complaint was the rather light-handed pour size of their sake "carafes", which only seem to hold about 5 fl oz ... which was just slightly over 1 full size portion (typically a cypress-wood masu box, or a glass tumbler), but which barely gave each of the three small (but very pretty) 1-oz sake thimbles we were given 1.5 fills each. Too small ! A "carafe" should hold at least two full servings, and should be priced slightly less than the cost of two full glasses. No such deal here.

The place also, quite unintentionally, had the feel of a Japanese version of a 1920's "speakeasy" ... if only because, viewed from the street, all you see is the facade of a japanese restaurant called "Hapon" (which always seems to be closed whenever I'm passing by). The only evidence of sakagura's presence are some letters on the glass door of a building entrace nearby - with a sign leading your around the corner and down a flight of stairs (which felt like they were taking us into the furnace room in the basement) ... and which eventually spilled us out into a sumptuous Dr. No-esque dining room (done out in dark woods, black laquer, and krypton-bulbs in overhead cans) filled with lovely bowing waitresses, and a massive wall of sake bottles. Although we were hardly the only occidentals there, we were definitely in a minority.

The tab was a bit steep, but it was well worth the experience. I am more determined than ever, however, to find a liquor store (within driving distance) that stocks a decent assortment of daiginjo ... indulging my sake habit exclusively at restaurants is kinda expensive. ;)
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Post by Paladin »

Anybody catch the new season of "Who is the Next Food Network Star?"
Anybody have any ideas on who the next winner would be?
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Post by Darb »

Not me ... I'm not big on reality/elimination shows.
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Post by violetblue »

Paladin wrote:Anybody catch the new season of "Who is the Next Food Network Star?"
Anybody have any ideas on who the next winner would be?
I have seen two episodes of it... the one that was on last night didn't record because we lost power (bad spring storm).

The first episode I saw was the one in which they had to demonstrate knife techniques for Morimoto. I was not impressed by any of the contestants, to be honest. If I recall, none of them filleted the fish successfully. I mean, come on. One of the contestants tried to cut the scales off the flesh instead of the other way around. Morimoto was starting to look pretty ticked off and I think they should be thankful he didn't start filleting them!

So, I got a bad impression of the contestants right off the bat. The second show I saw was the one in which they deliberately messed them up while they were supposed to be doing a 5-minute cooking demonstration for the news feeds. I found this idea childish and contrived, and again, the contestants did not absolve themselves well. They either got rude or curt with the interviewers. But, Sandra Lee (was this another episode, maybe I saw 3) seemed impressed with the bald guy (Nathan Lyon). He seems very full of himself, though, which to me makes him unlikeable. But I guess he could join the ranks of other chefs putting themselves up on a pedestal, though (thinking of Bobby Flay).

Guy, Nathan, and Reggie definitely have the most personality. I would love to see an ethnic food show like Evette wants to bring to FN, but I don't think she'll win. I think of the three I mentioned, I'd like to see Guy win, just because he seems like he's the most easy-going and interesting.
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Post by Darb »

The first episode I saw was the one in which they had to demonstrate knife techniques for Morimoto. I was not impressed by any of the contestants, to be honest. If I recall, none of them filleted the fish successfully.
I haven't seen the episode in question, but that touches on one of my pet peeves ... the lack of fundamental skills (ex: knife skills) by most TV chefs (and wannabes). Heck, I'm not even a pro, and I probably have better knife skills than most of them. Don't ask me to do a perfect 7-sided torney of carrot, or fancy oriental-style garnishes, but I'm otherwise no slouch.
I mean, come on. One of the contestants tried to cut the scales off the flesh instead of the other way around. Morimoto was starting to look pretty ticked off and I think they should be thankful he didn't start filleting them!
D'oh ! :slap:

Yes, Morimoto would be angry at that ... both at the inexcusable lack of skill, as well as the blatant disrespect for both the ingredient {the fish}, and the tools.

It would piss me off too, because I was raised by children of the great depression - that means no waste.
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Post by Aunflin »

Brad wrote:On the off chance Mario is around, I'll encourage him to kick Rachel Ray's butt on Iron Chef. You already know Anthony Bourdain's, as well as my, opinion of people who are only on the food channel because they're perky personalities and pretty faces, rather than real chefs. :deviate:
Rachel Ray wrote:"I'm not a chef," says Rachael. "I don't belong on 'Iron Chef.'
It's true ... Say it again !
Say it again ! :P
I could tell that from watching the program once!

I hate most cooking shows--people with long hair hanging out all over food, no gloves, long fingernails, never use proper cutting technique, and etc.

Very IRRITATING.

Still at my same job. They gave me a raise I couldn't resist (my new boss is a certified Chef de Cuisine) and he doesn't want to lose me. I also really like working for him. He's really cool--and is willing to do work whatever position to get the job done whether its dishes, pots, or etc. I respect him a lot. (I hate working for lazy people!)

Well, enough of my self-centered babble.... :roll:
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Post by Paladin »

violetblue wrote:
Paladin wrote:Anybody catch the new season of "Who is the Next Food Network Star?"
Anybody have any ideas on who the next winner would be?
I have seen two episodes of it... the one that was on last night didn't record because we lost power (bad spring storm).

The first episode I saw was the one in which they had to demonstrate knife techniques for Morimoto. I was not impressed by any of the contestants, to be honest. If I recall, none of them filleted the fish successfully. I mean, come on. One of the contestants tried to cut the scales off the flesh instead of the other way around. Morimoto was starting to look pretty ticked off and I think they should be thankful he didn't start filleting them!

So, I got a bad impression of the contestants right off the bat. The second show I saw was the one in which they deliberately messed them up while they were supposed to be doing a 5-minute cooking demonstration for the news feeds. I found this idea childish and contrived, and again, the contestants did not absolve themselves well. They either got rude or curt with the interviewers. But, Sandra Lee (was this another episode, maybe I saw 3) seemed impressed with the bald guy (Nathan Lyon). He seems very full of himself, though, which to me makes him unlikeable. But I guess he could join the ranks of other chefs putting themselves up on a pedestal, though (thinking of Bobby Flay).

Guy, Nathan, and Reggie definitely have the most personality. I would love to see an ethnic food show like Evette wants to bring to FN, but I don't think she'll win. I think of the three I mentioned, I'd like to see Guy win, just because he seems like he's the most easy-going and interesting.

I just caught the last show. I also think its going to be Guy, Nathan, or Reggie as the final three. Right now, Guy seems to have the most likeable personalilty to me. We will see how it goes...
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Post by violetblue »

This may not be the right thread for this recipe, but since Brad discussed going to Mario Batali's Esca restaurant earlier in the thread, I thought I would include this here.

This is recipe from Batali's Ristorante Babbo in NYC, provided by a local gourmet food and cooking store owner:
Cherry Mostarda

4 cups sugar
1 bottle red wine
1/4 cup mustard seeds
1 1/2 cup dried mustard, slurried
1/4 cup black pepper
2 quarts pitted red cherries, or 2 quarts dried cherries
1/2 cup mustard oil

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the first five ingredients (sugar through black pepper). Bring to a boil over high heat. When the mixture boil, reduce the heat and allow the mixture to simmer gently until it reduces to a syrup-like consistency. Stir occasionally to ensure that the sugar does not burn and stick to the bottom of the pan. Add the cherries and mustard oil. Stir to mix and continue cooking until the cherries are soft and breaking into pieces. Cool in an ice bath before serving.

Andrew Appel's notes on this recipe:

"The choice of wine is important since it is the bulk of the liquid. I chose a red from Puglia called Sfida that is 60 percent Primitivo, 20 percent Sangiovese, and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon...

I coarsely crushed the mustard seed with a mortar & pestle. I think this is important versus leaving them whole for more punch.

I started with cracked black pepper and ended up more like coarse ground black pepper using the mortar & pestle.

It took about 20 minutes to get to a syrup consistency (light syrup since there wasn't much liquid to dried cherry volume to begin with). After about 40 minutes of cooking the cherries I found it too chunky and took 5/8 to 1/2 of it out, spread it on a board and chopped the cherries with a cook's knife. Still came out stickier than intended."
Apparently it was served with cheeses and crackers, etc. I think slurried means it was mixed with water? Anyway, it was supposedly very good. This is the type of thing you could serve at a really nice hors d'oeuvres party to impress your friends, I think.
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Post by Darb »

Hmmmm ... I like the use of mustard with the fruit. Looks somewhat analagous to indian-style chutneys.

I sometimes make a jelly from red bell peppers that goes great with cheese and crackers, and I was intending to make it spicy next time by adding a red habernero or two.

Anyway, interesting stuff. :)
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Post by Darb »

TOLLBABY: Tony Bourdain does Quebec in his next episode of "No Reservations" on the Travel Channel, on Mon 4/17. It's sure to be a total hoot ... don't miss it. :P
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Post by tollbaby »

I don't get that channel :( You'll have to give me a breakdown!
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Post by daetara »

brad, you better be careful how you malign alton brown around me... :evil: :P

good eats is my favorite cooking show, although i haven't made too many of his recipes. mostly i just apply the concepts to things i already do.

i know how much people here seem to have a problem with rachael ray, but while i certainly agree that her voice is annoying ( :shock: ) i've made more of her recipes in the last two months than i have of AB's ever. they're approachable, simple to make, and good for us lowly beginners to start with.

i occasionally watch an episode of everyday italian, but for the most part i find her recipes to be out of my league. her stracoto with porcini mushrooms was excellent, though.

i can't stand bobby flay. i'm pretty ambivalent about everyone else, but i can't stand bobby flay. he needs to be taken down several notches. :twisted:
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